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We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal; that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights; that among these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness.
– from the American colonists’ Declaration of Independence, 1776
OUR pursuit of happiness led to a home in Provence, complete with fireplace, garden, and a gorgeous view. We call it Villa Bonheur, and live there about half of each year.
When we are asked about differences between living in France and in the United States we admit the biggest to be language, but we must remember to cross our 7’s, so they won’t be read as 1’s, and to cross-bar our checks. Money is, of course, in francs and centimes, temperatures in degrees Centigrade, all measurements in metric units. Easy for an engineer, a bit harder for Marjorie, who still finds it strange to follow a recipe in grams instead of cups.
The big cities now have supermarkets. In our little town of Lorgues there are seven groceries, five butchers and five bakeries. We have one pharmacy and two doctors for 4,000 people. The mayor (he is one of the doctors!) sees no need for another pharmacy or for more doctors.
All our stores are open Sunday mornings, all except the newspaper store closed Mondays. Banks are open Tuesday through Friday and on Saturday mornings. All business places except (bien sur) restaurants close at noon, reopen at 2 or when the spirit moves; restaurants open at noon, close at 2, reopen at 7:30 and close when the last customer leaves.
Our favorite restaurant in Lorgues is Le Four. On weekends Robert makes delicious pizzas in a big fireplace built specially for the purpose. He dashes from that to another fireplace where he grills steaks, lamb chops, brochettes, and big juicy sausages called andouillettes; all the time talking a blue streak in his thick Provencal accent, stopping to shake hands with old friends, advising newcomers on what to order and, occasionally, asking someone who has had too much to drink to leave by either door, but quick. In the kitchen Ileane, his wife, is making the best pommes frites you ever tasted, delicious salads, spaghetti, ravioli, and crepes Grand Marnier. A meal at Le Four costs 25 francs ($4.50) or less for the two of us, with wine included.
In a French restaurant one does not have to wonder when the check (l’addition) will arrive. Never, until you ask for it! It is a custom we enjoy, as one never feels he is being rushed.
Cost of living? Over all, we find France quite a bit cheaper. Some things, such as refrigerators and washing machines, are much more expensive, small electric appliances much cheaper. Bread is 15 cents a pound, milk 16 cents a quart, a haircut 80 cents; help in the house or garden about half the New Jersey rates.
Beef is expensive, seldom very good. Veal is the most expensive meat one can buy, but of excellent quality. Chicken is cheap and delicious. Vegetables are seasonal, but always fresh and good.
Real estate taxes, for comparable properties, are about one-fortieth of those in New Jersey; home-owners’ insurance premiums half what we pay here. But social security payments are about 20% of wages, and automobile insurance costs nearly twice as much as here.
It is still possible to be treated rudely in the big cities, but life in small towns is very different. All our neighbors are hard-working and friendly, and have been very helpful to us.
The pace is leisurely. Nothing happens very quickly. Air mail isn’t used when surface mail will do, nor the telephone when a letter will serve. The siesta is as sacred to the Provencal as to a Spaniard, and many Lorgueais spend whole days sitting in the sun or playing Boules. In bad weather, or at night, they sit in cafes and play Belote. The great national pastime, in small towns as in Paris, is sitting at a sidewalk cafe and sipping a pastis or other aperitif.
In Lorgues we have five sidewalk cafes, at which one may sit all afternoon, or all evening, with a single 18-cent drink, and watch the girls go by.
Vive la France!
This is the first (and perhaps the last) issue of the Personal Journal of Marjorie & Charles Colvin. Written by Marjorie and printed by Charles for the members of the National Amateur Press Association and other friends, in December 1970, at Tewksbury, where the address for mail is: Lebanon, New Jersey 08833. The address of our French home, to which we shall return in March, is: