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Reno
Leaving the pleasant amateur journalist reunions of Salt Lake City behind us, Mrs. Grady and I flew on 532 miles further west to Reno in a huge United 727 jet. Air travel is restful and our explorations of Nevada’s second largest city began upon arrival. This procedure was enhanced by being met at the airport by Mrs. Grady’s son, Brad, and his beautiful girlfriend Phiz, who had driven up from Long Beach.
A few rounds of licit liquids heightened the visual pleasures to be observed but it is my opinion that to anyone who has inspected the palaces of Las Vegas, the embellishments of Reno are no contest. Reno newspapers make veiled references to Las Vegas and it is easy to detect sibling rivalry. No matter how hard Reno may try in the future to approach Las Vegas in glitter and glamor it will never make it. Some personages of the entertainment world include both cities on their performing agendas but they are but token.
Reno appears to be the “working man’s gambling center” whereas Las Vegas caters to a more sophisticated clientele. Most cogent factor here is the manner dress. More than that, Vegas is the “in” place. Status to the celebrity means much more than mere dollars.
All major entertainment casinos of Reno are located in a tight downtown area. Exterior lighting arrangements of the clubs, while exciting, cannot compare with the electrical bedazzlements of Las Vegas’ spots.
Reno has many gambling casinos, of course, and all facets of gaming are readily available. Heading the list is the old pioneer, Harold’s Club (1,000 employees!) followed by Harrah’s. The two establishments operate side by side and as if to underline the “togetherness” of their altruistic business aims, the alley between the two buildings is wall-to-wall carpeted.
Female dealers are far more numerous in Reno than Vegas but there appears to be a greater application of “eye-in-the-sky” one-way mirrors placed over tables.
Nevada is the only state to legalize gambling and bookmaking. Las Vegas doesn’t take much interest in betting on the horses. Reno’s Douglas Alley has nine bookie parlors. They rely primarily on old-timers.
Reno has a substantial scenic asset – the Truckee River which flows through the main part of the city. Melting snow from the mountain tops (in July!) feeds the river and it flows swiftly and bankfull, with picturesque little rapids.
Reno is recovering from a minor lapse in employment and population growth. Seattle and other northwestern localities drained off substantial manpower with new developments. Indexes are now leveling off. Reno’s neighbor city, Sparks, is growing impressively and there is considerable overlapping. Moves are underway to annex it into Reno.
Thirty miles west of Reno is the state capitol of Nevada, Carson City, and there, in a sumptuous motel, we headquartered to explore the scenes of this historic city named after Kit Carson during the Pony Express era.
The basement of the Nevada State Museum is given over to a complete replica of a silver mine of the 1870’s. Low beamed corridors and iron rails on the floors heighten the illusion of being underground to a considerable depth. The museum building was once a branch of the United States Mint.
Someone must have lost a bundle at the Nugget, Carson Cit’s leading gambling casino. It was evacuated five times in two weeks due to bomb threats.
Virginia City
Fifteen miles from Carson City, at the beginnings of the Sierra Mountains, lies the West’s liveliest ghost town, Virginia City, Nev. Due to my admiration for Mark Twain, and the grand old Western newspaper, Territorial Enterprise, my visit to Virginia City was an anticipated high spot.
C Street, with its two- and three-story buildings and wood sidewalks, remains much the same as it was when she was the Queen of the Comstock Lode. Disastrous fires down through the years have taken out a great many of the old buildings but enough remain to give authenticity and a Western boom-town flavor.
Mark Twain’s first signed article appeared in the Territorial Enterprise in 1863. The original building still stands unscathed, looking just as it did in old engravings. The newspaper brought in the first Hoe flatbed press and the hulking wreck still lies fallow in the basement along with other assorted trivia.
Although Mark Twain’s tenure in Virginia City was short (two years – before departing rapidly for San Francisco) his legend in the Comstock has been expanded far beyond the bounds of reality. There are several “museums” – our contemporary tourist society expects, nay, demands them. So, “Mark Twain’s desk,” Mark Twain’s this-and-that, are all on display.
At the peak of its prosperity, during the mining boom of the Comstock Lode, Virginia City had 2,200 buildings (including 100 saloons!) Today, most are gone. Also vanished is the Virginia & Truckee R. R. – even the rails. The puffing locomotives, the long ore trains, the plush private cars of the big spenders…
Less than 500 people now reside there and they devote their days to keeping alive the heritage of the Old West. 6,000 tourists a day help them pass the time.
Rich ore pockets still lie undiscovered far below Mount Davidson, Gold Hill, and Silver City. Recent activity in the silver market and abandonment of the $1.29-an-ounce ceiling indicates the price eventually may climb to $3 an ounce. Then the costs of exploration and recovery might make it possible for the Comstock to reopen. $3 silver would signal a new Bonanza for Nevada’s mining industry.
Gradylogue, No. 36, September 1967.
Written and hand-set by Milton R. Grady at
Pillbox Private Press,
Des Moines, Iowa 50317.
Set in 10 pt. Binny.